20250911-F007
September 11, 2025. Sebastopol, California. Matt Niess harvests the Baco Noir Vineyard: Planted in the 1960s, these vines thrive on a fog-swept Sebastopol hillside in the Russian River Valley without sprays or irrigation. Naturally resistant to mildew, the hybrid flourishes where European varieties would falter without fungicides. Photographs by Bryan Meltz for the New York Times